Savouring Sentimentality

Last night, while waiting for the last bit of liquid to cook off of my wild rice, I was informed that Condé Nast will be closing Gourmet magazine. An interesting solution to a financial problem. Of course, on a superficial level, ceasing to publish a magazine that has a high budget and a low readership seems like a sensible move. However, Gourmet has a circulation of 980,000. Granted that this economy is difficult, it is a phase that will eventually pass. Gourmet magazine has been in circulation since 1941, and like many Condé Nast publications (think Vogue, GQ), does not sell the practical but the ideal and aspirations.

By closing Gourmet, Condé Nast is sending the signal that there are no more culinary aspirations. There are no more smart, educated analyses on food. The nationwide voice of food politics is reduced at a time when more people are looking to the White House for direction on what to put on their plates. The Michelin stars are figuratively burning out of the media sky and no longer giving home cooks something to strive for. A meal in 30 minutes is not an art. A meal to savour for 3 hours, that is an art.

Condé Nast has decided to keep Bon Appetit magazine, another fine culinary periodical that is more focused on the practical hands-on approach. The pages of Bon Appetit are more down to earth, presumably the reason why an external consulting company decided to keep the brand. Furthermore, Bon Appetit has a higher readership, most likely because it is less intimidating. Recipes like "Around the World in 80 Hot Dogs" are not daunting. Reviews of the Maine lobster festival from author David Foster Wallace are.

I thought of all the reasons why my throat had a lump in it last night and why I let the rice burn. I am not directly involved in Gourmet magazine - I can not afford an overseas subscription. Nonetheless, I was greatly saddened, not only by the magazine but also by the burnt dinner. But why?

These are undoubtedly hard times for all economies, particularly for print media. Therefore, it is understandable that Condé Nast needs to reduce its costs. However, without the tradition and lore of Gourmet, Condé Nast is losing its art and keeping its commerce. And that, in any economy, is the saddest aspect of all.

Codes, Rules, Instructions

I finally got around to reading The Code, a set of ethical rules/regulations/recommendations for food bloggers. While I think this is a good idea, it amazes me that there is a necessity for such a code.

The princinples of the code are as follows:

1. Be accountable
2. Be nice
3. Be honest

Aren't there certain things that are just understood? While I am new to blogging, I am not new to writing, and I believe that most bloggers, foodies or otherwise, have been taught to do all of these things. It may have been a lesson in Kindergarten including sharing or something. Maybe it's another one of my overestimations of humanity that will cause me to be crushed and disappointed when I see that this is not the case.

I decided that tonight, I will actually follow a "code". Recipes are models, which you have to be able to read, that is, you have to be able to decipher the code.
While I can come to terms with rules of writing, I still have issues with following instructions. Nonetheless, I tried my best to follow this recipe for Stir-Fried Snow Peas With Soba.

Here is photographic evidence of the fact that I can't follow directions. The gustatory evidence can only be described as: I put in more hot red pepper oil to my taste than suits most other people's taste. I still thought the peanut sauce was awesome, and I have been asked to do it again, just "tone it down a little".

This kind of writing code I can deal with very easily. What I have difficulties dealing with is the code of recipes. OK - it's more like my inability to follow directions. But the code? Being a responsible writer? This is easy.